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Dress standards
Cultural sensitivity is the hallmark of considerate travellers. Dress standards vary considerably around Nepal - eye-popping halter tops and loincloth-clad saddhus to the Victorian ankle standard, but foreigners are judged differently. For trekking, tidy with covered shoulders and long pants earns the most respect, while skimpy tops and tight leggings invite unwarranted attention. Skirts are not required for women (most Khumbu Sherpa women wear either their local 'ungi', sweats or jeans).
In Kathmandu
From April to the end of October, it is warm, even hot during the day. Cool, light clothes are best, and longer shorts are acceptable. November thru to the end of March, it is still usually warm during the day and a single layer will often do, but in the evenings you will want a fleece jacket, and during late December thru to February, a light down jacket is better for eating/drinking outside. The hotel stores free of cost whatever you don't take trekking, and of course they have a laundry service. You might want to plan with a clean set of clothes for your return from the trek.
Who carries what
You carry a day pack with your camera, jacket, water and snacks. The porters (or sometimes yaks) carry everything else, so pack this in a duffel/kitbag rather than backpack. You can store gear free of charge at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Teahouse treks in the Everest Region - planning
Because we fly in to Lukla, we miss the low, hot country, and slightly different gear is needed. It is usually sunny but cool when trekking; however, we should be minimally prepared for all types of weather. During a fine winter day, the sun is warming even if the air temperature is not. At medium altitudes, a shirt will do; higher up, a thermal top or thermal and T-shirt are a good combination. If there is a breeze, walking in a fleece, thermal top and fleece vest or windproof jacket becomes practical. Trousers are standard wear, rather than shorts (although long shorts are OK up to Namche in the hotter months).
In the evenings the lodge usually have a potbelly stove and so most dining rooms are warm, but in a few a thick down jacket and fleece pants and/or long johns and trousers are necessary.
Washing clothes at altitude is difficult yet most people get by with only two changes of top and a single pair of pants. When deciding on warm clothing, the principle of only what you can wear at once should apply. Take another thermal top to sleep in but your evening long johns should do for sleeping as well. Take the best but no excess.
Expedition-style treks - planning
Basically you should plan with 4 specific climates/functions in
mind :
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travelling and trekking in the hot low country
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fine weather trekking in the cooler high country
-
difficult conditions when pass crossing/high country trekking (rare, but you should be
prepared)
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COLD high country evenings
Obviously, much of your gear will fulfill multiple roles.
For Kanchenjunga, Manaslu and Annapurna treks it really can be hot and sweaty in the initial low country. For spring you will also want an umbrella (available in Kathmandu), better in rain than any Gore-tex.
Especially for Oct-Nov-Dec treks you really do want WARM gear for the evenings, a good down jacket and some insulated pants, and a real -30C/-20F sleeping bag.
Gear discussion
Virtually all of this gear is available in Kathmandu, but the quality is sometimes OK, sometimes not so good, so if you like the best gear then bring most from home. We will show you the best shops. Good all-leather boots are not available in Kathmandu, only lightweight hiking boots. IF price is a concern, you can by the majority of you gear in Kathmandu.
Kitbag (duffel bag / duffle bag)
For all the treks your gear that is carried by the porters or yaks is best packed in a strong kitbag. A simple design without wheels and without foldable handles is best. You can buy in Kathmandu, although they are not as tough as say the North Face Base Camp Duffel.
Sleeping bag
Down-filled bags are better. Beg, borrow or steal a good one (ie 4-5 season) because high altitude nights will be cool. Good down is fluffy, light and thick. A muff (an extra section around the neck) makes a big difference to the overall warmth of a bag. Reasonable sleeping bags are cheaply available for rent in Kathmandu. Alternatively add a fleece sleeping bag liner to add warmth to a 3-4 season bag.
Sleeping bag liner
Cotton, silk or fleece. Saves washing your sleeping bag and adds warmth. These are now available in Kathmandu, Yak shop has the best silk ones, every shop offers fleece ones for around $10-16.
Daypack
This should be comfortable and a good waist band that transfers some of the weight to the hips is most important. It needs to be big enough to take a jacket, fleece, water, camera and odds and ends. Kathmandu now offers a range of cheap fall-part packs to top of the range Mammut and Black Diamond, which really are nice. MY personal favourite are my Osprey packs though.
Boots
For a happy trek you need comfortable feet. Good boots have: good ankle support, plenty of toe room for long descents, a stiff sole to lessen twisting torsion, and are light because with every step you lift your boot up. Look at the inner lining - leather is good and Cambrelle is even better, a material that eats smelly feet bacteria. Good lightweight trekking boots or light all leather boots are perfect. Boots must be lightly worn in before trekking and this should include some steep hills to show up trouble spots. The longer the trek, the better the boots you need.
The rougher the trek, the longer the trek, the tougher your boots should be. If you are trekking in heavier boots then it may also be worth taking along some light running shoe-style trainers (eg Salomon XA's), and wear these for the first few days, switching to real boots in the higher country or when it rains.
Socks
In the low country your feet will be warm or even hot while walking so quality cotton mix sports socks are best. Three to four pairs are enough. Thick trekking socks are better for higher up and cool evenings, four pairs. Mostly modern trekking boots fit snugly so wearing two pairs of socks at the same time is impractical.
Camp shoes/sandals/flip-flops
A luxury for your feet at the end of the day. Sandals or running shoes (tougher cross-trainers also work, see above). Flip-flops, available for cheap in Kathmandu, are a necessity for showers during the Khumbu and Annapurna treks.
Fleece jacket/vest
Most trekkers consider this essential, but alternatives are a thick thermal top or a light down jacket. In Kathmandu you can get almost any sort of copy fleece you need, but originals are harder to come by.
Down jacket/vest
Almost essential for the cool evenings. If you don't already have a jacket, they are easily rented in Kathmandu for around $1 a day. A down jacket is the best option, although a vest can also be brought along.
Wind/rain jacket
Waterproof and breathable. Plastic ponchos or non-breathable raincoats are not suitable. Gore-tex (or similar) jackets are recommended for treks over passes or climbing trips. Lighter jackets should be a second jacket, easy to throw in the daypack for warmer days.
Thermal shirts/underwear
Good thermals, both tops and bottoms, are one of the secrets to cold weather trekking comfort. Expedition-weight thermals are the most versatile and can be worn as your high altitude trekking top or under pants on extremely cold days. Zip-up tops are great for changeable weather.
Nightwear thermals
Silk-weight is lightest and warm, mid-weight is perfect. Great for making warm nights in the sleeping bag, which is essential for a full recovery.
Fleece/sweatpants
Great for the chilly evenings, thicker is better (except for when the stoves in the teahouses really heat up!). Readily available in Kathmandu.
Day-wear shirt
T-shirts are popular but a travel shirt is more versatile. The collar protects the back of your neck and the sleeves can be rolled up or down. Take two so you can swap damp for dry.
Trekking pants
You will live in these. Light material, loose and medium-coloured is best. You can survive with only one pair, although two is better.
Wind pants
If your trekking pants are reasonably windproof then special wind pants are not needed. If you do bring a pair, it is not necessary to have Gore-tex. Similar, non-waterproof is quite OK.
Underwear
4 to 7 pairs.
Warm hat/balaclava
Nice for the evenings, hats essential for cold trekking days. Joel brings at least 5 warm hats, you might get away with fewer!
Neck gaiter
For winter trekking they are really the best for staying warm!
Trekking poles
Definitely useful, especially on steep, rough terrain, but if you are not used to using them you can survive without. One can be useful for easing long descents.
Sunglasses
Good wraparound glasses suitable for snow, its bright up there, but specialized glacier glasses with side pieces are not needed. Contact lens wearers report very few problems except cleaning them in the conditions. Ski goggles are unnecessary.
Mittens/gloves
A good pair of wind-proof gloves is essential. Available in Kathmandu for cheap if you don't have a pair.
Water bottle
Should be one liter or more in capacity, take boiling water and be leak-proof. Nalgene or a similar brand, or European Aluminum bottles, are best, all available in Kathmandu. You need AT LEAST 2 water bottles, or at least 1 water bottle IN ADDITION to a Camelback or hydration system.
Pee bottle
Very useful on cold high country nights! Can buy a cheap one in Kathmandu.
Torch / Flashlight
LED head torches rule. Available in Kathmandu.
Toiletries and odds & ends
Essentials for the month only. The smallest tube of toothpaste available in Kathmandu is perfect for a month. Teahouse trekking, there are a surprising number of showers or buckets of hot water available. We provide toilet paper for expeditions, you bring or buy along the way for tea-house treks. Deodorant can spare you grief with your room mate/tent partner...
Towel
Bring only a small one trekking, or a camp towel. In Kathmandu the hotel supplies towels.
Sunscreen and lip balm with sunscreen
The sun is strong at altitude, especially after snow. Bring at least sunscreen and lip balm WITH SPF 15, and better still SPF 30+. The best brand is Banana Boat, which is usually available in Kathmandu.
Moisturiser
A small tube for sensitive or well cared for skins. The air is dry and the sun harsh.
Sun hat
A baseball cap is ideal. Bring 5, if you like to change colors every day like Joel does. A wide-brim sun hat is also good.
First aid kit
We carry one with aspirin, Paracetamol, Ibuprofen, decongestants, lozenges, various antibiotics for Nepalese varieties of diarrhoea and chests infections, Diamox (an acclimatizing aid drug), antiseptic, antihistamine cream, oral rehydration, bandages and band-aids.
You should bring any personal medicines that you need, and if you have had blisters in the past, a good kit.
Water purification
You can get away without water purification but, exspecially for a hot trek, it is nice to be indpendent from the lodges or expedition crew. A bottle of iodine tablets such as Potable Aqua, PolarPure or Couglans can be useful. We mostly use to water from the lodges but occasionally take water from the streams. The use of mineral water is discouraged from an environmental point of view, but is available everywhere.
Camera and video camera
See the separate discussion.
Books
One or two with high swapability. Kathmandu has some great second-hand book shops.
Money-pouch/belt/inside pocket
Most people find wearing one while trekking is a hassle and keep it buried in their kitbag or daypack. The Kathmandu hotel has safety deposit boxes.
Snow gaiters
Not needed but if you have them, consider bringing them if going above 4000m.
Inflatable sleeping pad
Thermarest or similar - for expedition/climbing treks ONLY, not tea-house treks. We provide a sponge foam mattress and if necessary, a closed cell pad, but if you have your own Thermarest, bring it. We also have a few available for rent.
Down booties
Great for cool evenings for a cold weather trek/climb. Available in Kathmandu.
Evening camp-wear (non-teahouse treks)
Around camp you can wear camp shoes, sandals (for non-winter treks) or leather boots. No matter what altitude and what season, it is cool to bloody freezing in the evenings. By far the best clothing
is :
-
a down jacket, light or heavy. These area available for rent or for sale in Kathmandu.
-
thick fleece pants
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fleece hat and neck gaiter
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thick sox
Snacks and nutrition
You will feel your best with plenty of good food and keeping hydrated. We provide the food and the water. However you will also want wholesome snacks and vitamin tablets. Chocolate, chocolate bars, dried fruit bars and dried fruit are readily available in Kathmandu, but Clif bars, Power bars, energy gels and the like are not usually available.
What is available in Kathmandu
Kathmandu is developing! There is now several good shops that sell a very limited variety of imported gear, such as North Face, Mountain Hardwear and Back Diamond. There are also hundreds of small gear shops in Kathmandu mostly sell locally made fake gear and a strange variety of new gear. Always available are LED head torches and their batteries, fleece gloves and hats, fleece jackets and pants, sunglasses, Swiss army knives, water bottles and fuel containers and large kit bags.
The items that are better brought from home are: boots, socks, thermal underwear, quality fleece, liner gloves and Gore-tex clothing. Some of these are now available in Kathmandu, but sizes and quality varies.
Renting equipment
Easy to rent items in Kathmandu are down jackets and sleeping bags.
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